Nepal: Hiking the Himalayas


Annapurna Base Camp

It is hard to put into words what it feels like to first see the Himalayas. They are truly the most awe-inspiring natural wonder I’ve ever experienced and probably ever will. The enormity both in height and expansiveness (they simply seem to go on forever) is breathtaking, impossible to comprehend, and insane. It’s easy to understand why the locals have revered them as gods and goddesses for millennia. We found ourselves speaking to them as such, and frequently thanking them for their benevolent nature towards us in our travels. 

After Pokhara, the rest of our month in Nepal was comprised of two parts: an 11 day trek to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) and a trip to the Everest region for a visit with Sagarmatha herself (Sagarmatha is the Nepalese name for Everest which translates to Goddess of the Sky).

Quick aside: we spent a few days in Kathmandu at both the start and end of our trip and really enjoyed it! As the reputation goes, we found it extremely backpacker-friendly and pleasantly hectic, though compared to Egypt and, more recently, India, we weren’t the least bit fazed. 

Our trek to ABC

After weeks of contemplation, mainly in regards to timing and our own endurance (both mental and physical), we decided to commit to an 11 day trek to Annapurna Base Camp. It was challenging but so so rewarding. We made it to base camp with the help of our guide Kaji and two amazing porters, Hem and Anil. Everyday we woke up to tackle yet another roller coaster of steps across the Himalayan foothills, to say "Namaste" about a hundred times to the trekkers we pass along the way, to eat fried rice and garlic soup, and to feel accomplished when Kaji informs us that we've made it to our next village destination. 

Dhan'yavād (thank you) to the mountains that became our companions and to our motley crew that made it possible. 

Leaving Pokhara for 11 days

Selfie with our guide Kaji

Lodge Night 1

Night 1 by the fire


End of Day 1 - Ghandruk




End of Day 2 - Chomrong


Our guide Kaji leading the way



End of Day 3 - Dovan





Obligatory Reading

End of Day 4 - Deurali

Avalanche Warning





The final stretch to ABC


We made it!


Lots of card games were played

And books were read

Snowed in

End of Day 5 - Annapurna Base Camp

Sunrise



Our Crew




End of Day 6 - Himalaya (the town)



End of Day 7 - Chomrong (again)

Baby goats on the way

Make way for donkeys



End of Day 8 - Tadapani

Rhododendrons in bloom



End of Day 9 - Ghorepani




Sunrise at Poon Hill

View from our room

End of Day 10 - Ulleri

Alix tries being a porter

End of Day 11 - that's a wrap!

Sagarmatha

Many of the peaks surrounding Everest are considered more stunning in the aesthetic sense. But there’s just something about Everest - she is a gravity well, of course both literally due to her mass and figuratively for our attention. I can’t say I understand the desire to summit her but I do understand the desire to be near to her. 

I read several books about climbing Everest while we were in the Himalayas. One climber I read about got all the way to the top but refused to stand on her summit out of respect for the mountain. That story makes sense to me. 

Reese and I were incredibly lucky to get an up-and-close visit via helicopter. It was easily the coolest, most amazing experience I have ever had. The helicopter dropped us off at Hotel Everest View where we popped a bottle of champagne for brunch while continuing to admire Sagarmatha and stayed for two nights to enjoy the region. 

A few months out and I hope to return one day - still feeling that gravity well from afar. 


Luka Airport
 
The runway


Prayer Wheels

You're very welcome!


Even the local Irish pub has prayer wheels




Helicopter Views

Khumbu Glacier to Everest Base Camp


There she is!



Flying down from Everest





Hotel Everest View