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| The Sphinx and Pyramid of Giza |
Egypt's rich and storied history is palpable immediately. It's palpable in the streets, the food, the architecture, the people. We visited an ancient Egyptian temple that fell into ruin, became used as a Christian chapel by the Romans that conquered it, and today is a functioning Mosque, all built on top of where the earth buried the past over time, now exumed for tourists to see all three buildings like a layer cake of contradictions.
You become somewhat of an armchair carbon dater: "ah yes, this looks like something from the new kingdom" you might say about an ancient carving in a mountain, tagged with graffiti in Latin, all while the call to prayer plays over the loud speakers in modern Arabic. It's a messy, complex stew of cultures that's been simmering for millenia.
The people here are boisterous, caring, accommodating yet insistent, surprisingly playful, and the most tenacious hustlers I've ever met. You become acutely aware that the current people are simply the latest in a long line of stewards that have looked after this land for generations. It's humbling.
The land itself is a dichotomy. The cities are loud, chaotic, overcrowded. It's the worst traffic I've ever seen. Yet it's vibrant, and rich, and explosive. It feels abundantly alive. Outside the cities are completely different: the countryside is still, calming, and at times desolate. The Nile gives life and vitality to its immediate proximity, but the vast desert that surrounds it is a much more formidable and stark emptiness extending beyond the horizon.
When you visit Egypt, you can almost see a cross section of time itself walking around here, just as a geologist would with a cross section of rock. It's all here, all at once, unfolding out before you.
On our brief two week tour of the country, Alix and I visited Cairo, Luxor, took a cruise down the Nile, and ended in Alexandria.
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| Saqqara Pyramid, the oldest on earth |
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| Our tour guide Mohammed teaching us how to read hieroglyphics |
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| Lunch with a view |
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| Pyramids of Giza |
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| Desert outside Cairo |
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| Pyramid up close |
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| Top of the Great Pyramid |
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| Local souk |
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| Hotel view of the Nile |
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| Mosque of Mohammed Ali, ruler of Egypt from 1805 to 1848 |
Cairo is crazy! That's what everyone would say to us as we visited other cities in Egypt. And boy, are they right. Traffic, noise, pollution, overcrowding, aggressive vendors. For city kids that we are, even this was excess for us. But behind the chaos lies an extremely rich history that was amazing to visit in person. The Great Pyramids of Giza in particular lived up to their acclaim. Truly an awe inspiring wonder.
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| Hotel view of the Nile with a pool |
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| Alix explores Valley of the Kings |
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Ra blessing the pharaoh
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Luxor was a welcome reprieve. Smaller, riverside town with even more numerous and impressive ancient relics. We learned all about the history of the different kingdoms as we explored the various temples and tombs that have survived for thousands of years.
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| Sunset over our boat, Malouka |
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A serene stroll down the Nile
 | Nile-side village at sunset
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| Traditional Egyptian lunch |
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| Setting sail |
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| Cabin view |
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Traditional Crocodile mummy over the old home's doorway
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Reese overlooking the Egyptian desert towards Libya
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Chillin'
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Alix with our final Egyptian temple, Kom Ombo
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Nour el Nil. What a wonderful time! The Nile gives life: to the desert in the form of irrigation, and to wayward travelers like us in the form of a welcomed break from hustle bustle tour days. We met great people along the way. Our fellow travelers aboard were from all around the world, yet dining together every meal made us feel local and connected. Special appreciation goes to the fantastic crew, and in particular our tour operator Salem.
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| View of the Mediterranean from the south side in Alexandria |
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| The (newly rebuilt) Library of Alexandria |
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| Fort of Alexandria, where the famous lighthouse once stood |
After our cruise, we flew back to Cairo and caught a train up to Alexandria. Sitting on the coast of the Mediterranean, Alexandria is decidedly more modern than it's sister cities scattered with ancient reminders of its past. Here, the reminders are more subtle. The famed library of Alexandria burned down in a fire and has recently been rebuilt. The lighthouse, one of the ancient wonders of the world, collapsed in an earthquake, and now sits a fort built by the Arabs who later took over the city from the Romans. We enjoyed a little respite and transition back to the current era as we said farewell to Egypt and continued on to Jordan.
